Tangail Saree: Difference between revisions - Wikipedia

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{{Short description|Traditional hand woven cotton saree of South AsiaBangladesh}}

{{Merge|Tangail Sareesaree (West Bengal)|date=February 2024}}

{{infobox Sharee

| name = Tangail Saree

| image = BD Tangail 3.JPG

| image_size =

| caption = Colored cotton threads hung to dry during production of Tangail Saree in [[Tangail district]], [[Bangladesh]]

| country = {{flag|Bangladesh}}

| origin_placestate = [[Tangail]], Bangladesh =

| location = Tangail

| origin_place = [[Tangail]]

| origin‌‌_date =

| created_by =

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| website =

}}

'''''Tangail saree''''' is a traditional handwoven saree of [[Bangladesh]].Two It originated in the [[Tangail district]] of the country. A completely [[Tangail Saree (West Bengal)|different]] kind of sareessaree are beingis produced in the [[Purba Bardhaman district|Purba Bardhaman]] and [[Nadia district|Nadia]] districts of [[West Bengal]] and in [[Tangail district]] of Bangladesh. In [[West Bengal]] itIt is a simplified [[Jamdani]] textile thatwhich is a fusionhybrid of [[Shantipuri sari|Shantipuri handloom sareessaree]] with [[Handloomsaree industrydesighns inand Tangail |Tangail's designs andhandloom techniques]] which makes it completely unique. Today it's popular by the name of [[Tangail Saree (West Bengal)|Tangail Saree of Bengal]] because the majority of it's weavers have migrated from [[Tangail]]. OnAt 2one January 2024level, Geographicalit indicationis ora GIgross tagsimplification underof the titlefamed "[[Tangail Saree (West Bengal)|Tangail Saree of BengalJamdani]]" was issued from the office in Chennai, [[India]]technique. InThis Bangladesh today ais completely different Saree is being produced infrom the name of 'Tangail Saree' which is completely different above one but creates confusion due to similarity in names. This "[[Tangail Saree]]"|Tangail was recognized as a GI productsari of [[Bangladesh]] by the country's Department of Patents , Designs and Trademarks (DPDT) under the Industries Ministry in February 2024.<ref> cite web|url=https://www.dhakatribune.com/bangladesh/government-affairs/344894/gi-certificates-for-tangail-sari-13-other</ref><ref>cite web|url=https://theprint.in/opinion/fighting-over-tangail-saree-gi-tag-wont-do-india-bangladesh-any-good-its-a-shared-legacy/1960927</ref>

== History ==

{{main| Handloom industry in BengalTangail}}

At the end of the 19th century, the [[handloom industry in [[Tangail|handloom industry of Tangail]] in Bengal flourished. Tangail Saree weavers of Bangladesh are descendants of traditional [[muslin]] weavers. [[Dhamrai]] and Chauhatta of [[Dhaka district]] were the original residence of many [[Tangail]] Saree weavers of Bangladesh. Later they settled in Tangail and in the beginning they made cloth without designs.<ref>{{cite news |title=টাঙ্গাইল শাড়ি নিজেদের দাবি করে সমালোচনার মুখে ভারত |url=https://www.synewssomoynews.tv/news/2024-02-02/uTMvQ5DF |access-date=3 February 2024}}</ref>

OnAt theone other sidetime, cotton weaving was a very important industry in [[Nadia district]]. During the late eighteenth and early nineteenth century, [[Shantipur]] was the center of a large and prosperous [[weaving]] industry. In 1898 AD, almost all the villages in this district had a few weavers. The weaving industry of Shantipur faced a major threat in the late nineteenth century due to the introduction of cloth from England. The weavers found the trade unprofitable and switched to other professions, resulting in a gradual decline in the number of weavers in the industry. However, according to a survey conducted in 1940 by the Department of Industries, [[Bengal Presidency|Bengal]], 10,000 out of a total of 27,000 people in Shantipur were reported to be members of weaving families.<ref name="ipindia2">{{cite web |title=G.I. Application Number – 702 |url=https://archive.org/details/702-gi-journal-copy-31-08-2023 |publisher=[[Intellectual property in India]] |access-date=3 February 2024 |location=Chennai |date=31 August 2023}}</ref>

Every member of the weaver's family was involved in the weaving of Tangail sarees produced in [[Bengal Presidency|undivided Bengal]] i.e. East-Bengal of [[British India]]. No weavers or laborers were hired, which was the practice of not letting the weaving technique go outside the weaver's family. The [[Basak]] families were the original saree weaving families of [[Tangail District|Tangail]]. These weavers were mainly from the [[Hindus|Hindu]] "[[Basak]]" community. After the [[Partition of India|partition]] of the country in 1947, most of the traditional weavers, including most of the [[Basak]] weavers community, of this region started migrated to [[West Bengal]] from [[East Pakistan]] (now Bangladesh). The process of migration intensified in 1965, and reached its peak in 1971 during the [[Indo-Pakistani war of 1971|Indo-Pak War]] and the [[Bangladesh Liberation War]].<ref name="ipindia2"/><ref name="anandabazar1">{{cite news |last1=Bhattacharya |first1=Kedarnath |title=সুদিন কি আদৌ ফিরবে, 'জিআই' তকমা পাওয়ার পরে প্রশ্ন তাঁতশিল্পীদের |url=https://www.anandabazar.com/west-bengal/bardhaman/artisans-hopes-better-income-after-district-received-the-gi-tag-of-tangail-saree/cid/1486695 |access-date=3 February 2024 |work=www.anandabazar.com |agency=ABP |date=6 January 2024 |location=Purbasthali |language=bn}}</ref> Due to the fear of [[Persecution of Hindus#Bangladesh|communal violence]], cost of raw materials increasing several times, non-availability of loans from the government, crisis in transportation of goods, lack of business security [[Hindu]] weavers gradually migrated from [[East Pakistan]](Now [[Bangladesh]]). to [[India]], which was mentioned in a research paper published in a journal in 2014.<ref name="Prothomalo2">{{cite news |last1=Ghalib |first1=Rafsan |title=টাঙ্গাইল শাড়ি কীভাবে ভারতের হয় |url=https://www.prothomalo.com/opinion/column/acpgtfam03 |access-date=4 February 2024 |work=Prothomalo |date=4 February 2024 |language=bn}}</ref>

At present, [[Muslim]] weavers also weave this saree along with the weavers of the "[[Basak]]"s majority of which community (around 80%) today are setteled in [[India|Indian]] state of [[West Bengal]]Tangail.<ref>{{Cite web |last=Hasan |first=Kamrul |title=টাঙ্গাইল শাড়ি: শেকড় ফিরে দেখা |url=https://egiyechoegiyecholo.com/article/tangail-saree |access-date=2024-02-10 |website=egiyecholo.com |language=en}}</ref><ref>{{Cite news |date=3 February 2024 |title=গর্বের ধন ‌'টাঙ্গাইল শাড়ি' বেহাত হলো কার দোষে |url=https://www.samakal.com/opinion/article/221154/%E0%A6%97%E0%A6%B0%E0%A7%8D%E0%A6%AC%E0%A7%87%E0%A6%B0-%E0%A6%A7%E0%A6%A8-%E2%80%8C%E2%80%98%E0%A6%9F%E0%A6%BE%E0%A6%99%E0%A7%8D%E0%A6%97%E0%A6%BE%E0%A6%87%E0%A6%B2-%E0%A6%B6%E0%A6%BE%E0%A7%9C%E0%A6%BF%E2%80%99-%E0%A6%AC%E0%A7%87%E0%A6%B9%E0%A6%BE%E0%A6%A4-%E0%A6%B9%E0%A6%B2%E0%A7%8B-%E0%A6%95%E0%A6%BE%E0%A6%B0-%E0%A6%A6%E0%A7%8B%E0%A6%B7%E0%A7%87 |title=গর্বের ধন ‌‘টাঙ্গাইল শাড়ি’ বেহাত হলো কার দোষে |language=bn |work=[[Samakal]]}}</ref>

=== Origin of the saree in West Bengal ===

Traditionally, [[Shantipur]] of [[Nadia district|Nadia]] and [[Kalna City]] of [[Purba Bardhaman district|Purba Bardhaman]] districts are famous centers for handwoven fabrics, hence basak weavers settled in these places and surrounding areas. However, the Basak community maintained their weaving technique through many adversities. Most of the weavers with the help of looms brought with them from [[East Pakistan]] (Now[[East Bengal]], now [[Bangadesh]]) and Others with the help of looms provided by the [[Government of India]] and [[Government of West Bengal]] continued to weave sarees even in [[East Bengali refugees|refugee camps]]; many weavers joined the weaving industry of West Bengal as workers in looms owned by local weavers in [[Shantipur]]santipur, [[Phulia]], [[Dhatrigram]] and [[Samudragarh]].<ref name="ipindia2"/>

[[File:Weaving Tant Saree by Handloom - 2 Natun Phulia - Nadia 2016-11-12 1802.JPG|thumb|right|A weaver weaves a saree in [[Phulia]].]]

With government encouragement and assistance, weavers from East Bengal soon revived their ancestral profession and the weaving industry flourished again. The weavers of the Basak community of East-Bengal mastered the technique of weaving and designing the [[Shantipuri sari|Shantipuri loom saree]] while employed as laborers in the weaving centers of the local weavers of West Bengal and with the help of the local weavers. Later, the weavers of the [[Basak]] community were able to mixing the [[Dhaka]]-[[Tangail]] style with the [[Shantipuri sari|Shantipuri loom sari]]. In this mixing a new sari is produced; this new saree produced in West Bengal came to be known as "[[Tangail Saree (West Bengal)|Tangail saree]]", which was completely different from the Tangail saree produced in East-Bengal. Like the Bangladeshi Tangail saree, it is also a simplified version of the famous [[Jamdani|Jamdani technique]].<ref name="ipindia2"/>

==References==

{{reflist}}

{{Sari}}

[[Category:Geographical indications in Bangladesh]]

[[Category:Bangladeshi clothing]]

[[Category:Woven fabrics]]